Tuscany

BEYOND SASSICAIA & ORNELLAIA

From the galestro hills of Chianti Classico to the wild Mediterranean macchia of Maremma, discover Tuscany's natural wine resistance—where Sangiovese sheds its industrial armor and ancient varieties reclaim the Terrazzo soils

Tuscany Natural Wine Guide: The Sangiovese Renaissance & Biodynamic Revolution | Chianti, Brunello & Super Tuscan Pioneers

58k Hectares Under Vine

41 DOCG Wines

80% Red Wine Production

3,000 Years of Viticulture

The Renaissance of Tuscan Natural Wine

Where Etruscan tradition meets biodynamic revolution

Tuscany—the beating heart of Italian wine culture—has undergone a quiet revolution. While the world knows Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, a new generation of natural winemakers is rewriting the region's story. From the galestro soils of Chianti to the iron-rich clay of Montalcino, these producers are stripping away industrial techniques to reveal the pure expression of Sangiovese and ancient Tuscan varieties.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of Tuscan natural wine—producers who have rejected chemical farming and technological manipulation. Stella di Campalto of San Giuseppe crafts ethereal Sangiovese from biodynamic vineyards in Montalcino. Angelo Biondi Santi (Il Greppo) created the template for Brunello that natural winemakers now emulate. Podere Le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) makes cult "Le Trame" from old-vine Sangiovese. La Stoppa (Elena Pantaleoni) preserves ancient varieties like Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and Ortrugo in Emilia-Romagna's borderlands.

What unites them is a commitment to indigenous varieties (Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino), biodynamic farming, and traditional winemaking (native yeast, long macerations, old barrels). These wines—often elegant, savory, and deeply terroir-driven—represent a Tuscany that is ancient, artisanal, and utterly distinct from industrial Super Tuscans.

Key Facts

Location: Central Italy, Tyrrhenian coast
History: 3,000+ years (Etruscan origins)
Key Regions: Chianti Classico, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Bolgheri, Maremma
Main Grapes: Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Trebbiano
Method: Biodynamic, organic, traditional fermentation
Style: Elegant, savory, high acid, terroir-driven
Notable: Birthplace of Brunello and Chianti Classico

From Etruscan Amphorae to the Natural Wine Movement

3,000 years of Tuscan wine evolution

800 BCE

Etruscan Foundations

The Etruscans cultivate vines in the hills of central Tuscany, establishing the region's viticultural identity. They develop advanced pruning techniques and trade wine throughout the Mediterranean. Indigenous varieties like Sangiovese likely descend from wild vines selected during this period. The Etruscans bury amphorae in the ground for fermentation—techniques echoed today by natural winemakers using qvevri and clay.

1716

The First Wine Laws

Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issues an edict defining the boundaries of Chianti—one of the world's first wine appellations. The zone includes Radda, Gaiole, Castellina, and Greve. This establishes the concept of terroir-based wine production that would influence European wine law for centuries. The edict specifies that wines from these hills are distinct and superior.

1888

Brunello is Born

Ferruccio Biondi Santi bottles the first "Brunello di Montalcino" at Il Greppo estate. He isolates a specific Sangiovese clone (Sangiovese Grosso) and ages it in large oak casks, creating a wine capable of decades of aging. This establishes the template for one of Italy's most prestigious wines. The Biondi Santi family maintains traditional methods—large casks, long aging, no small barriques—that natural winemakers celebrate today.

1872

Baron Ricasoli's Formula

Baron Bettino Ricasoli codifies the "recipe" for Chianti: 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 15% Malvasia Bianca. While modern natural winemakers reject such rigid formulas, Ricasoli's emphasis on Sangiovese and indigenous varieties laid the groundwork for quality-focused production. The Ricasoli family continues to innovate while respecting tradition at Castello di Brolio.

1960s-1970s

The Super Tuscan Revolution

Pioneers like Mario Incisa della Rocchetta (Sassicaia), Piero Antinori (Tignanello), and Lodovico Antinori (Ornellaia) begin blending Sangiovese with international varieties (Cabernet, Merlot) and aging in new French barriques. These "Super Tuscans" revolutionize Tuscan wine quality but depart from indigenous tradition. Natural winemakers later react against this international style, returning to native grapes and traditional aging.

1990s-2000s

The Natural Renaissance

Stella di Campalto inherits San Giuseppe in Montalcino (1992) and immediately converts to organic, then biodynamic farming. She rejects the region's trend toward extraction and new oak, instead making elegant, transparent wines. La Stoppa (Elena Pantaleoni) shifts focus to ancient varieties. Podere Le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) establishes her winery with old-vine Sangiovese. The "natural" movement takes root in Tuscany's hills, emphasizing terroir over technology.

"Wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar. My job is to listen to what the grapes want to say." — Stella di Campalto, San Giuseppe

Galestro, Alberese & Clay

The diverse terroirs of Tuscan natural wine

🏰 Chianti Classico

The historic heart of Chianti, between Florence and Siena. Altitude 200-800m. Two main soil types: galestro (friable, schistous clay) and alberese (hard, calcareous stone). Galestro produces elegant, aromatic wines; alberese gives structure and minerality. Home to Radda, Gaiole, Castellina, Greve. Cooler climate preserves acidity. Natural winemakers: Montesecondo, Le Boncie, Fontodi (conventional but respected). The Chianti Classico Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) symbol guarantees origin.

🌋 Montalcino

Hilltop town south of Siena. Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Diverse soils: limestone, clay, sand, volcanic galestro. Higher altitude (300-600m) creates diurnal temperature swings. Stella di Campalto's San Giuseppe sits in the southeast, biodynamic since 1996. Biondi Santi's Il Greppo is the historical benchmark. The rosso di montalcino appellation allows for earlier drinking. Natural winemakers focus on transparency and elegance over extraction.

🌊 Maremma

Coastal region in southwestern Tuscany, once marshland drained by Mussolini. Warmer, Mediterranean climate. Bolgheri is famous for Super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Ornellaia), but natural winemakers work inland in Scansano (Morellino di Scansano DOCG) and Pitigliano. Ancient volcanic soils. Producers like Jacopo Biondi Santi (Jacopo Biondi Santi Tenuta) and Claudio Morelli make natural wines from Sangiovese and indigenous varieties. Wilder, less manicured than Chianti.

🍇 Montepulciano

Hill town southeast of Siena. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo grape). Primarily Sangiovese (called Prugnolo Gentile here), with Canaiolo and Mammolo. Clay and sand soils. Avignonesi is the largest producer, but smaller natural producers like Salcheto (biodynamic, carbon-neutral) are gaining attention. The wines are often more approachable than Brunello but with similar structure.

🌾 Val d'Orcia

UNESCO World Heritage valley south of Siena. Crete senesi (clay hills) and distinctive cypress-lined roads. Part of the greater Brunello zone but includes areas for Rosso Orcia DOC. Podere Forte (biodynamic) and others work here. The landscape is iconic—rolling hills, wheat fields, and isolated farmhouses. The clay-limestone soils produce wines with marked minerality.

🏔️ Casentino & Beyond

Eastern Tuscany, mountainous and forested. Less known for wine but home to hidden natural producers. The Casentino valley has a cooler climate. Some producers here are reviving nearly extinct varieties. The Chianti Rufina sub-zone (northeast of Florence) is cooler and produces more acidic, age-worthy wines than Classico. Selvapiana is the benchmark producer here.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Chianti Classico	Continental, altitude	Galestro, alberese	Elegant, acidic, mineral
Montalcino	Mediterranean, diurnal	Limestone, clay, sand	Structured, complex, age-worthy
Maremma	Mediterranean, coastal	Volcanic, sandy	Ripe, wild, approachable
Montepulciano	Continental	Clay, sand	Approachable, floral, earthy
Val d'Orcia	Continental	Clay-limestone	Mineral, pure, elegant

The Featured Producers

The pioneers of the Tuscan natural wine renaissance

Montalcino – The Biodynamic Queens

Stella di Campalto

San Giuseppe, Montalcino

Inherited the estate in 1992 (family had owned since 1910). Immediately converted to organic, then biodynamic (Demeter certified). Located in Castelnuovo dell'Abate (southeast Montalcino), 250-400m altitude. 13 hectares total, 6 under vine. Ungrafted vines (planted on own roots) in some parcels. Indigenous yeast, no temperature control, minimal sulfur. Wines: Rosso di Montalcino (young vines), Brunello di Montalcino (single vineyard), Brunello Riserva (best barrels), and "Vigna Scorzone" (oldest vines, 80+ years). Wines are ethereal, transparent, with incredible perfume and acidity. "The wine is made in the vineyard."

Biodynamic Demeter Ungrafted Vines Icon

Iliana & Francesco Alberici

Podere Sanguineto, Montepulciano

Small estate in Montepulciano. Organic farming. Focus on Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and traditional methods. Making natural wines in a zone dominated by larger producers. Emphasis on terroir expression and indigenous varieties. Part of the new wave bringing attention back to Vino Nobile's potential for natural wine.

Organic Prugnolo Gentile Montepulciano Traditional

Federico & Laura Bianchi

Pian Dell'Orino, Montalcino

German-Italian couple who purchased the estate in 1997. Biodynamic farming (Demeter certified). 6 hectares in southern Montalcino. Very low yields (20-25 hl/ha). Long macerations (40+ days). Large old oak casks (botti). No filtration, minimal sulfur. "Bassolino di Sopra" is the flagship Brunello from a single vineyard. Also make Rosso and "Carolina" (100% Merlot, named after daughter). Wines are precise, mineral, with incredible depth. "We want to show the truth of our terroir."

Biodynamic Demeter Low Yields Precision

Chianti Classico – The Heartland

Giovanna Morganti

Podere Le Boncie, Chianti Classico

Former agronomist for Chianti Classico consortium. Founded Le Boncie in 1990 in Castelnuovo Berardenga (southeast Chianti). 5 hectares at 400m altitude. Old vines (40-50 years) of Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Canaiolo, Foglia Tonda. "Le Trame" is the flagship—field blend of all varieties, aged in old barrels. Also makes "Cinghiale in Cantina" (single vineyard Sangiovese). Biodynamic farming, minimal intervention, no temperature control, indigenous yeast. Wines are savory, complex, with incredible depth and aging potential. Cult following worldwide.

Biodynamic Field Blends Le Trame Cult Status

Danilo Marcucci

Montesecondo, Chianti Classico

Started in 2000 in Cerreto Guidi (between Florence and Vinci). 13 hectares. Biodynamic farming. Two lines: "Montesecondo" (more traditional Chianti) and "Tïn" (amphora-aged, natural wines). The Tïn line uses buried clay amphorae (tin in local dialect) for fermentation and aging. Makes Sangiovese, Trebbiano, and field blends. Also produces "IGT Toscana" wines from indigenous varieties. Minimal sulfur, no filtration. Wines are pure, energetic, with distinct mineral character. Danilo consults for other natural wineries across Italy.

Biodynamic Amphora Tïn Consultant

Paolo & Lucia de Marchi

Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico

Historic estate in Barberino Tavarnelle (western Chianti). Paolo is a legendary figure who championed Sangiovese quality in the 1970s-80s. While not strictly "natural," they practice sustainable farming and traditional winemaking. Known for "Chianti Classico Gran Selezione" and "Vin Santo." Paolo's son Luca now makes more natural-leaning wines under his own label. Isole e Olena represents the bridge between traditional quality and natural philosophy—indigenous varieties, respect for terroir, minimal manipulation.

Sustainable Traditional Legend Vin Santo

Duccio Morozzo

Colombaia, Chianti Classico

Small estate in Radda in Chianti (heart of Classico). Biodynamic farming. Very small production. Focus on Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Traditional methods with minimal intervention. Part of the younger generation reclaiming traditional Chianti methods. Wines are elegant, with bright acidity and red fruit character.

Biodynamic Radda Small Production Young Generation

Borderlands & Beyond – Ancient Varieties

Elena Pantaleoni

La Stoppa, Emilia-Romagna (Tuscany border)

While technically in Emilia-Romagna, La Stoppa is spiritually Tuscan and influences the region. Estate founded in 19th century by a lawyer who planted Bordeaux varieties. Elena took over in 1991, ripped out Cabernet and Merlot, planted indigenous varieties: Barbera, Bonarda, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Ortrugo, Marsanne. Biodynamic farming (Demeter). "Ageno" is the legendary amber wine—Malvasia/Marsanne/Ortrugo, 30 days skin contact, aged 2 years before release. "Trebbiolo" is the red (Barbera/Bonarda). No temperature control, indigenous yeast, minimal sulfur. Wines are profound, complex, and age-worthy.

Biodynamic Ageno Amber Wine Borderlands

Antonio & Daniela Cagnoni

Il Cancelliere, Montepulciano

Small family estate in Montepulciano. Organic farming. Focus on traditional Vino Nobile with natural methods. Old-vine Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile) with long macerations. Aged in large oak casks. Minimal sulfur. Representing the traditional side of natural wine in Montepulciano—elegant, structured, with the characteristic violet and cherry notes of the zone.

Organic Prugnolo Gentile Traditional Montepulciano

Maremma – The Wild Coast

Jacopo Biondi Santi

Jacopo Biondi Santi Tenuta, Maremma

Great-grandson of Ferruccio Biondi Santi (creator of Brunello). Left the family estate to create his own project in Maremma (2000s). 40 hectares near the coast. Focus on Sangiovese and traditional methods. "Sassoalloro" is the flagship—pure Sangiovese, aged in large casks. Also makes "Schidione" (Merlot/Sangiovese blend). While not strictly "natural," emphasizes terroir and traditional methods. Represents the extension of Brunello philosophy to the coast.

Traditional Sangiovese Coastal Legacy

Claudio Morelli

Podere Il Carnasciale, Valdarno di Sopra

Small estate in the upper Arno valley (border of Chianti). Natural farming. Focus on Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. "Il Caberlot" is a unique variety (Cabernet Franc/Merlot cross) discovered growing wild. Very limited production. Aged in French oak. While using international varieties, the approach is natural and terroir-focused. Cult status among collectors.

Natural Caberlot Rare Cult

"The best fertilizer is the winemaker's shadow." — Old Tuscan proverb, embraced by natural winemakers

The Grapes of Natural Tuscany

Indigenous treasures of the Sangiovese renaissance

Red Variety • The King

Sangiovese

The soul of Tuscan wine. Name derives from "sanguis Jovis" (blood of Jupiter). Two main clones: Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello, power) and Sangiovese Piccolo (Chianti, elegance). Thin-skinned, high acid, moderate tannin. Naturally suited to long aging. In natural winemaking, shows pure red cherry, violet, iron, and earth when not masked by new oak. Thrives on galestro and alberese soils.

Style: High acid, moderate tannin, red fruit, earthy
Natural Wine Role: Pure expression, no oak masking
Top Producers: Stella di Campalto, Le Boncie, Pian Dell'Orino
Regions: Chianti Classico, Montalcino, Montepulciano
Notable: 10+ years aging potential in natural versions

Red Variety • The Softener

Canaiolo

Traditional blending partner to Sangiovese in Chianti. Softens tannins and adds floral perfume. Lower in acid than Sangiovese. Historically important, now often replaced by international varieties in commercial wines. Natural winemakers (like Le Boncie) preserve it for complexity and tradition. Adds rose petal, red berry, and herbal notes to blends.

Style: Soft, floral, perfumed, low tannin
Natural Wine Role: Traditional field blends
Top Producers: Le Boncie, Montesecondo
Regions: Chianti Classico
Notable: Once more planted than Sangiovese in Chianti

Red Variety • The Cherry Bomb

Ciliegiolo

Named for "ciliegia" (cherry) due to intense cherry aroma. Once dismissed as minor blending grape, now celebrated by natural winemakers. Light-bodied, high acid, bright red fruit. Grown in Chianti, Maremma, and Liguria border. Le Boncie includes it in field blends. Can make light, chillable reds or more serious wines depending on site. Natural versions are vibrant and juicy.

Style: Light, cherry-scented, high acid
Natural Wine Role: Field blends, light reds
Top Producers: Le Boncie, Ampeleia
Regions: Chianti, Maremma, Liguria
Notable: Increasingly popular for chillable reds

More Tuscan Varieties

From ancient blending grapes to rare indigenous whites

Colorino: Deeply colored blending grape used for color and structure. Rarely bottled alone. Le Boncie preserves it in field blends.

Foglia Tonda: Nearly extinct variety revived by natural winemakers. Adds spice and structure. Grown by Le Boncie.

Mammolo: Aromatic variety used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Adds violet perfume to blends.

Trebbiano Toscano: Traditional white grape of Chianti. Makes light, acidic wines. Often blended with Malvasia for Vin Santo.

Malvasia Bianca: Aromatic white used in Vin Santo and traditional Chianti blends. Adds body and perfume.

Vermentino: Coastal white variety (more common in Maremma and Sardinia). Crisp, mineral, saline.

Food Pairing & Tuscan Cuisine

Sangiovese meets ribollita, bistecca, and pecorino

Pairings for Brunello & Aged Sangiovese

Structured, earthy reds from Montalcino

Bistecca alla Fiorentina: T-bone steak, rare, with olive oil
Pecorino Toscano: Aged sheep's milk cheese
Wild boar ragù: Pappardelle al cinghiale
Grilled lamb: Abbacchio scottadito
Local match: Cinta Senese pork (heritage breed)

Pairings for Chianti Classico

Elegant, acidic reds with bright fruit

Ribollita: Hearty vegetable and bread soup
Pappa al pomodoro: Tomato and bread soup
White beans: Fagioli di Sorana
Crostini: Chicken liver toasts
Local match: Finocchiona (fennel salami)

Tuscan Wine Traditions

Fiascos, Vin Santo, and the culture of contadini

Fiasco is the traditional straw-covered bottle of Chianti, now mostly decorative but symbolizing the region's rustic heritage. Vin Santo is the traditional dessert wine—Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes dried on mats, fermented in small barrels (caratelli) for years, creating oxidative, nutty, caramel notes. Dip cantucci (almond biscuits) in it. Osterie are traditional taverns serving wine by the glass with simple food. The contadini (peasant) tradition values self-sufficiency—wine, olive oil, bread, and cheese from the estate. Biodynamic winemakers follow lunar calendars for planting, pruning, and bottling. The vendemmia (harvest) is still often done by hand in natural vineyards. Many estates offer agriturismo—farm stays where you live the wine life.

Visiting Natural Tuscany

From Chianti's cypress roads to Montalcino's hilltop town

🏰 Chianti Classico

Base in Gaiole, Radda, or Castellina. Visit Podere Le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti—appointment only, taste Le Trame). Montesecondo (Danilo Marcucci—taste Tïn amphora wines). Drive the Chiantigiana road (SR222) through vineyards. See Badia a Passignano (ancient abbey with winery). Eat at L'Osteria di Passignano or Bottega del 30. Combine with Siena (30 min) or Florence (45 min).

🌋 Montalcino

Base in Montalcino town or Castelnuovo dell'Abate. Visit San Giuseppe (Stella di Campalto—biodynamic pioneer, ethereal Brunello). Pian Dell'Orino (Federico & Laura Bianchi—precision biodynamics). See Sant'Antimo Abbey (Romanesque church surrounded by vines). Eat at Il Leccio or La Taverna di San Giuseppe. Combine with Bagno Vignoni (thermal baths) or Pienza (pecorino cheese town).

🌊 Maremma

Base in Massa Marittima or Scansano. Visit Ampeleia (Elisabetta Foradori & team—biodynamic, Mediterranean varieties). Jacopo Biondi Santi Tenuta (coastal Sangiovese). See Pitigliano (tufa town), Sorano, and Sovana (Etruscan ruins). Swim at Cala Violina. Eat wild boar dishes and Morellino di Scansano. Combine with Elba Island (ferry from Piombino).

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Florence: Arrive. Explore city, visit Le Volpi e L'Uva (natural wine bar). Overnight Florence.

Day 2 - Chianti Classico: Drive south (1 hour). Visit Montesecondo (Danilo Marcucci). Podere Le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti). Overnight Gaiole in Chianti.

Day 3 - Chianti Classico: Visit Fontodi (if open) or smaller producers. Wine trail walking. Overnight Chianti.

Day 4 - Siena: Drive to Siena (30 min). Explore city, Palio history. Enoteca Italiana (wine tasting). Overnight Siena.

Day 5 - Montalcino: Drive south (1 hour). Visit San Giuseppe (Stella di Campalto). Sant'Antimo Abbey. Overnight Montalcino.

Day 6 - Montalcino: Visit Pian Dell'Orino. Montalcino town, fortress views. Overnight Montalcino.

Day 7 - Val d'Orcia: Drive through Pienza (pecorino tasting). Bagno Vignoni (thermal baths). Overnight Pienza.

Day 8 - Maremma: Drive west (1.5 hours). Visit Ampeleia. Pitigliano (tufa town). Overnight Massa Marittima.

Day 9 - Coast: Beach day at Cala Violina. Populonia (Etruscan site). Return to Florence (2 hours) or stay coast.

Day 10 - Florence: Final tastings, shopping. Departure.